Friday, June 8, 2012

Taking the Flag for a Ride, Memorial Day Weekend 3

the nearest neighbors (from last November)
 day 3
     Waking up at 'man-land' in Brookfield is like emerging from a time-travel haze. Along a sparsely traveled dirt lane, on a hillside that is largely untouched, it is a small, simple, antique farm house with an un-complicated feel to it. The air is cool, clear and un-cluttered. The view sprawls across a sloping meadow and an opposing gulf framing the ancient town road that once traced along the creek at the bottom.The song birds will perch and linger, wild things will stroll through the fallow pastures and sometimes onto the small porch. Any sounds are seldom man-made, and distant if they are. There is no haste here. There was also no food in the cupboards to make breakfast with. Not even a cup of coffee. A quick call to his folks on the other side of the mountain, and it was decided to breakfast at the renowned EATON'S SUGAR HOUSE. The morning air was crisp in this back-country of Vermont, so leathers, gloves and scarves for the 20 minute sprint to the eatery. Our parade of one would be threading roads that run high and low and narrow along the Green Mountain range. The views are like postcards from a time gone by with an occasional resident tending a garden. Always, they would look up at the flag, some would wave and one youngster flashed a peace sign making it a prelude to the parades to come that day.
fast on Ferris road to rte 14
    Arriving ahead of our dinning companions, we parked the bike and began peeling off leather as they invited us to stow helmets in their truck. His dad opened the door taking my lid and put it up front,"...not because you're a lady or anything, just because I needed something from up front..." with a wink and smile (and returning with nothing in his hand). He being from a different era when chivalry was the norm, I'm sure it's gamble in etiquette in our times now for any thinking man or perhaps I look that formidable in my vintage Harley jacket. Still, it is always appreciated by me when anyone is kind. We four talked of Mustangs, the new models, the old models and their good and bad features as they owned some classics. It was an engaging, almost artsy, conversation about things that are realistically valued by this family of motor enthusiasts.  Good company, hearty breakfast of all the right stuff, and plenty of it, got us fired up for the day. Again, as so often, my biker chauffeur would ask me, "where do you wanna go?"
    I've been following a friend on fb, his blog posts are informative and inspiring, his wife and family are part of the autism community in VT and it is such a beautiful day...."Let's go to the Vermont Flower Farm!" was my enthusiastic reply. He reminded me quick enough, that I could not "possibly bring anything home on the bike..." Smiling, I promised no purchases and that he would enjoy these folks, the place and the ride to find it would be a fun way to roll northerly to my home and my curfew. I'm kidless this weekend but the next several weeks will be filled with parental duties as the school year ends. He was convinced so we saddled-up ready to begin the last stretch of roads with the flag. Rolling onto the town class 2 lane for a quick side trip to grab gear for the day's ride north. Spotting his neighbors at home, we popped in for a moment to say hi and show off the flag. Reaffirming his nickname 'outlaw', he left the driveway to run up the short hill onto their front lawn, flag waving in full glory. We couldn't leave without coffee and apple pie; a treat that was eaten with delicious vigor.
disappointed that the view was over-grown
   Beginning on the way back roads that lead into the eastern fringe of Barre, we slipped by the famed quarries where heaping piles of 'grout' or rejected granite retained the hillsides and steep banks of Graniteville. It was another crossroad in VT that was barely touched by modern times with house styles and town buildings looking much the same as the day they were built. At least early enough on this holiday, the narrow lanes free of traffic. Divining our way a little bit east and little bit north through Websterville; we started spotting signs for state roads and town line markers: rte 110 to 302. I sort of, barely knew where we were; the scenery was fresh and the landscape popping with the rituals of spring. In Groton, we cornered northerly onto 232 gliding over the smooth road top with not a soul insight. The sweepers on this forested lane are made for motorcycles, it seems. Spotting a scenic look-out, we stopped for a shade break and long view of Lake Groton, only to read a faded sign and view the trees obstructing the touted scene. Time to put the youth conservation corps to work in this state park.

    Recharged with water and trail mix, we mounted up and probed for the road that would take us to Marshfield and the place of our destination. After some miles of emerald clad lanes, we rolled onto it and enjoyed tracing the 'little Winooski river' on rte 2. Being on the bike, in my open face helmet I could saturate my senses with the green of it all. Not the new-age save the planet green, but the sights and smells of newly minted leaves, grass, flowers and un-festered sunshine that is only possible in the VT springtime. Anddd there were hardly any bugs yet. Our travels brought us out of another great, green forest of VT and into the more cultivated valley of this persistent waterway. Today it was a tame riverbed with gurgling water over polished stones, serene in its travels. But let there be too much rain and it becomes a torrent, blowing its banks and destroying anything in its way. But for us it was a landmark. We were getting closer to our target destination, the Vermont Flower Farm.
famous for Hostas, containers and a garden

found the VT Flower Farm

oddly, no other Harleys here

astillbees, daylillies and more
the westerly bedding fields

a golf cart tour by the gracious Gail
spoted by the native
VT hospitality at its best
hens and chicks
the iron horse from the chrome pony
   Spending a thin hour, we toured the nursery and conversed with the owners, soaking up the hard earned wisdom they shared. I want to install a 4 acre soft  fruit plantation on my farm and they were eager to point out the tricks that work and the follies that fail in such agronomic ventures. I enjoyed the all of it and staggered back to the waiting chrome pony to resume our ride. I needed to cool down, and the wind therapy on the bike was ideal. The roads we ride in VT seldom have delays or intersections to slow us down. On a stopped bike, the engine heat radiating off the tarmac will wilt me and melt my enthusiasm for the ride, today was warm enough for such a dilemma  so we sought out the low volume roads. From the flower farm, we were looking for country lanes, cool, shady and groovy; it was time to prospect for a creemee stand. A quick poll of the patrons at the farm and we headed north and easterly for Danville. Shortly along rte 2, we spotted another friend's place of business: Water Tower Farm, home of Rhythm of the Rein therapeutic riding center. Not wishing to stop in today, we would pause to photo the amazing steel sculpture at their entrance.
Joe's Pond the more southern shore
somewhere in Peachum or West Danville



   On every ride out, the only thing to really expect is the un-expected. On this ride we would roll into Peacham and poke around the town center, hoping to spot a roadside eatery. We were both hungry and weren't having any luck spotting such a place, so we startled an elderly woman race-walking along the roadside. She happily leaned into our biker space and directed us to the first left then out to the main road where we would surely see it. Not expecting the first left being in fifty feet, we cruised past our turning point and blasted blissfully on back roads that would roll through corn and hay fields left untended on this dry, holiday weekend. That's when we fell in behind a hay-bine and followed the very wide equipment for some miles. We could sigh and mumble all we wanted, but there were no other left turns and not many areas for safe passing. The loud drone of his equipment meant he didn't know of our pursuit and so we waited... and waited and finally came out along the unfamiliar side of Joe's Pond, not at all where we would find our coveted soft icecream. Our endless road took us 30minutes out of our way. So back to route 2 and still farther east; we went where we recognized St. Johnsbury. Maybe downtown we would find our relief, but the streets were empty and the storefronts closed up for the holiday. Navigating the vintage streets, we plodded back to rte 2 going west now and finally, spotted a biker's salvation. Abby's Ice Cream stop appeared on the right and we all but dove into the drive way.
great eats, great service
my kinda lites
whiskey, tango, foxtrot
   We stopped the bike and parked it a short walk from the window and an empty table to relax with our frozen libations. A maple creemee for him and a rhubarb sundae for me would sooth our dry pallets.  It wasn't long before more patrons stopped in choosing their spots in the ample parking lot. With spaces to spare, a mini van parked within 2 feet of our parked Harley as we watched with dismay as a not-at-all-skinny woman gingerly opened the passenger door to get out. It was almost amusing to watch her struggle by our bike and her car door. If she brushed the bike, would it roll on to the grass, or topple with her? My biker man was sure of his sidestand, but still a flailing grasp from a falling person could tip the scales from safe to not. Even at her heft, the bike still out-weighed her at 680 lbs. He was humored, I was annoyed; they had the whole lot yet they had to stop right next to the bike. I wasn't thinking charitable thoughts but it was too hot and we had ice cream to eat. By the time we finished our treats and prepared to remount the bike, the mini van clan had settled into their car to enjoy theirs. Her window was open when he started the bike, it got her full attention as she hastily closed her window. He let the bike choke a little longer than probably it needed and he roiled the throttle just to triple check his steel horse's disposition before he nodded for me to mount up and pull out. I know he was probably thinking she deserved the bike's attention. If she was concerned, she didn't show it, but he was pleased with the loud pipes, hardened by 44K miles, and I smiled at the grit the bike showed.
almost home on the Hog Back
   We would follow the sunset all the way home, gaining on landmarks and the sameness of the roads leading that way. It was a fantastic long run, 566 miles round trip. The bike was running slick and sweet with no real glitches. For our season opener, it would be hard to beat, the summer was just getting going and all the roads yet to be traveled, just waiting for us... the good Lord willing and the river don't rise.
peace to all, even the bike-dis-ing mini-van patron at the creemee stand...keep the shiny side up ~ ell



2 states, 3 days, 11 counties, 566 miles,  awesome sunburns... what a ride
this one's for the bikerman at the dash, who rolls with an easy manner and mastery of his bike so I may ride pillion and wonder at the all of it. . .

                         “I've got nothing to do today but smile.”
                                                                 ― Simon and Garfunkel

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Taking the Flag for a Ride ~ Memorial Day Weekend 2

Day 2...
    I love mornings for so many reasons. The gentle commencement of the day ahead and the positive energy of the possibilities. I feel physically and mentally strong. I have ambition and graceful movement. The air is cool and I feel as if I can do anything, like I can live my dreams...I feel normal, at least normal enough. By 11 am on any given day,  things will be different. My walk will get wobbly, my legs will weaken, my mind begins to fatigue. I have learned to plan my days and set my goals accordingly (that's an other story all together). So this morning, I felt especially jazzed; it would be a day dedicated to riding; one of my most normal pastimes still.
   The docks were in, the early air was crisp and clear and breakfast was yet another feast of fresh fruit, chilled lobster and hot coffee. With the dishes cleared, the discussion emerged around the ride-route home. I for one, knew that I didn't want to go home the way we had come. This was an adventure and I wanted to see places I haven't seen. I dreamed large about going up the east side of NH and circling Mt Washington to then make for St Johnsbury. But my patient bikerman knew better.  I had struggled to set the bike comfortably on day one. My squirming and wincing was too obvious to my driver. It was an indication of my limits over long miles as days grow warmer and black top more or less unkept in its veneer. Plainly, most of our VT roads suck and they take their toll on my flimsy muscle-tone. So we would target a route that was forgiving. He vowed to take many more shade breaks where I could cool down and stretch my weary legs. With the map out, everyone laid out their preferred route. My mother selected a village-sampler route; too many stops to suit us. I picked a more easterly route; too many junctions in that. He spied the fastest way to the selected Lake Winnipesaukee. There would be a brief sprint on the Daniel Webster Hwy and then off at the Hooksett exit for quieter rte 28N.
     In the dooryard, the bike protested only slightly belching a small bit of darker smoke but my driver was confident the foul fuel was nearly gone and the fresh gas would energize the engine. In 3 miles, he was proven right. I bow down to his mastery over his chrome pony's innards. It seems the "real" bikers know their motorcycles as well as the dude who built it. He never doubted the machine's perseverance, even when the symptoms seemed so grave only one day before.

Pandora Mills in Manchester NH
Lowell Mill girls from
from Lowell mills archives
    He challenged the fresh petrol and recent engine up-grades with a bold twist of the throttle and a closed clutch. If any neighbors were sleeping, they were awake now. He lifted his visor and cautioned me to "hang on...we're gonna make up some time here..." The NH roads were velvety smooth with light traffic as we glided past the historic city of Manchester. The behemoth  textile mills lined the banks of the Merrimack River with their massive windows gathering the brilliant sun, while random others were boarded shut. I pondered those times for this town, these industrious places, their 'state-of-the-art-at-the-time' yet so completely dependent upon women and children labor. Workers who could not imagine a biker chic like me blasting past them with loud pipes throbbing as I balanced effortlessly in the pillion seat. Would they ever imagine their sacrifices would, in part, lead to my freedoms? We owe so much, I think, to the women who toiled before us. I turned away from the view and wished their ghosts well, throwing in a prayer for all their kin. If ever you want to learn of their story, visit Lowell Mass. and tour the mills and canals. http://faculty.uml.edu/sgallagher/Mill_girls.htm
won't see this in VT: Billboards
     Not long on the highway, we popped off onto rte 28 and enjoyed a flawless ride to north-central NH. My first time in these parts and I was intrigued by the smooth roads and persistent advertising. A sight you'll not see in VT, was apparent in any place that an entrepreneur could erect one: Billboards were out and about. It was actually startling  when ever I'd see one. Accustomed  to broad vistas and un-obstructed views along VT roadways, they would appear randomly and often be unrelated to their location in NH. Route 28 was a pleasing route leading us straight to the Lake without incident, a very appreciated experience for sure. In fact, the vintage motorcycle ran like a newly minted ride, never missing a stroke. Coming to the lake-district sooner than we expected, we were suddenly tasked with spotting signs among an over abundance of signs,  indicating our departure for rte 11. Even with both of us straining to catch a familiar state route indicator, we managed to miss our turn at Alton Bay. The road continued northeast like carpet, yet the traffic thinned out considerably. Finding a scenic pull off, we took a break and opened the map. While stretching my legs and gazing at the famed lake in the distance, I caught a glimpse of my bikerman in, a rare profile. He works hard and plays hard, but he dedicated this weekend adventure to me, and in this moment I caught him in total repose, when I clicked yet another picture. He makes my moto-dreams come true and this picture is a favorite of mine, so indulge my heart-felt appreciation for him, please.
its so close
      With the lake in view, confirming our re-direction, we made for Alton Bay and the jct for rte 11. We were seeking Weirs Beach and hoping for some of the lore of 'Laconia Bike Week' to be in the air when we found it.
the great road to Laconia
Gliding down an un-remarkable lane, we landed on rte 11, the mother road for the infamous Laconia Bike Week. The pavement was pristine, double-wide ample lanes in both directions. Not a blemish anywhere, each line vividly painted, all signs standing straight and tall. In minutes, we caught upto a small group of bikers where we fell in for a short while. After a time, their slower pace bored my driver and he roiled his throttle passing the newish machines with ease. I marveled at their choice to ride without lids and how cavalier it made them look. But then the cowboys of old rode horses without helmets and I imagine today's motorcycle enthusiasts placate that un-caged urge to ride long, ride far, and ride free.
      It wasn't long enough on these expansive lanes before we hooked into Weirs Beach, and the dense holiday crowds of thousands of people and too many bikes to count. In this motorcycle mecca, our parade of one was barely unique. Dodging the clueless pedestrians at every corner or near corner, was frustrating. And devinning our way to a diner was becoming tiresome. One-ways, wrong-ways and trolling patrol cars made finding a place to park and eat a dance of dodge, stop and squint. Finally, we found a quiet lot, with spots to spare and a good looking lunch menu nailed to the fence. Dismounting the bike, my leathers were heavy, hot and more than I wanted to wear in the mid-afternoon sun. I broke out my folding cane, shiny black with Rhine stone ring at the collar, it at least looked 'hard-core' if a walking stick can. We strolled to the door only to find that it closed 20 minutes ago. "Damn" was all I could spit out of my mouth in despair, "I'm stauvvven!" I leaned on the fence rail while biker man strolled down the walk toward a sandwich board. He returned with a smile and a hurry-up lope. "...come on, I found someplace good...you'll love it." In a short distance was the famed George's Diner with plenty of seating and a full serve menu inside the air conditioned cottage. At that moment, we were the only bikers inside and enjoyed  ample portions of fish and chips while we swapped stories with the RI couple across the tight isle. Chocolate pie for desert and a map check to head for VT got the waitress's attention. And while my driver looked like George, it did not get us a free lunch or even accurate directions; seems she's never been there. Bill paid, we were off to find our way back to the Green Mtn State and overnight at his home in Brookfield.
Finding rte 25c, we enjoyed still more smooth road, almost to the border between these twin states. New Hampshire hospitality may be thin, but their road conditions make up for it. The bike was purring over the miles and the air was feeling a bit heavier. We were riding 'into weather' and the cloudscape was looking menacing to the northwest. It would be a race for creature comforts and I smelled rain. By the time we reached the lattice bridge crossing the CT river, a few random drops of rain would tag our windshield. There was no time to stop for rain suits as we turned south and west from Fairlee VT. He knew we were less than an hour from his house, the sky was dark but not low, so we had a chance at staying dry. Over each mile and past each landmark I smiled and pondered the grand ride of this day. Plenty of breaks, velvety roads, new sites, a flawless bike, and a worthy driver made for a sparkling day.



 Winding homeward, the shadows were long and tunnels of darkness where trees gulfed the road embracing us with the cool and calm of VT. Once parked in the door yard, the the vast scene was wrapped in the soft glow of twilight setting over the distant ridge. Owls could be heard in a challenge of baritones. The air was lighter, no rain had fallen here. Walking to the porch, I reveled in the silence, its weight was soothing as my mind was still feeling the ride. Sitting on the bench, leaning on my partner's shoulder, I believe I drifted off thinking of one more day to ride.... in Vermont and to a special place I've wanted to see... stay tuned for day 3... peace ~ ell

"Two roads diverged in a wood, and I  ~  I took the one less traveled by,
                        And that has made all the difference."
                                                    Robert Frost, The Road Not Taken